Old Pawn Notes

Some links on this site are affiliate links. If you buy through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. How this works.

Old Uniqlo tags: dating a Uniqlo piece by its label

In Japan, "old Uniqlo" (オールドユニクロ) is a small collecting field of its own: basics from the brand's early decades, dated by the tag at the neck. Here is the sequence of tags, and how we read one cardigan in our shop that carries the navy tag.

Short answer: a navy tag with white UNIQLO letters dates to about 2000 to early 2003. A navy tag with silver letters is older, about 1994 to 1999. A small round tag showing only the size is about 2003 to 2009, and a tag with katakana ユニクロ is the current style.

A pale butter-yellow cotton V-neck cardigan with five buttons and two pockets, laid flat.
A cotton V-neck cardigan from our shop, with the navy tag.

The tags in order

This sequence comes from a 2026 tag history by the Japanese fashion site FASHIONSNAP, supervised by an old-Uniqlo collector and checked against Uniqlo catalogs (FASHIONSNAP). The years are approximate, and tags overlapped at the changes.

Uniqlo neck tags, roughly in order
About whenTag
1984 to early 1990sUNIQUE CLOTHING WAREHOUSE, the full early name. Very rare.
1984 to early 1990s (after the first tag)A tag reading "Unique".
From about 1993Green tags, in more than one design.
1994 to about 1999Navy tag with silver-toned UNIQLO letters (the "silver tag").
About 2000 to early 2003Navy tag with white UNIQLO letters (the "navy tag").
2003 to about 2009A small round tag showing only the size.
2003 onward, standard by 2010The current tag, with katakana ユニクロ and UNIQLO.

1. The neck tag

A navy woven neck tag reading UNIQLO in white letters, with the size M below.
Navy tag, white letters, size M.

The letters are white, not silver, so this is the navy tag, about 2000 to early 2003. Look at the letters in daylight if you can. Under shop lights, white and silver can be hard to tell apart in a photo.

2. The labels inside

A white label inside the cardigan reading 504-0403, 綿 100%, 中国製.
Style number 504-0403, cotton 100% (綿), made in China (中国製).
A white care label with Japan's old care symbols, including a wash tub marked 30, and Japanese text below.
The care label uses Japan's old care symbols.

The fiber label reads cotton 100% and made in China, with the style number 504-0403. The care label uses Japan's old symbols, which were replaced on 1 December 2016, so it agrees with an early date. For how to read those symbols, see reading Japanese clothing labels.

One more clue from the same FASHIONSNAP history: from autumn/winter 2004, Uniqlo care labels carry a season code in brackets. This label has none, which also fits a piece from before then.

What we cannot tell you

The tag dates the label design, not the exact year this cardigan was sewn. Tags changed gradually, so a piece near a change can carry either style. We read this one as early 2000s.

Condition, honestly

The color has yellowed and faded overall, with clear sun-fading on the back. There are no holes or tears.

This cardigan is in our shop

We run a small vintage shop in Kawagoe, Japan (Old Pawn Notes and the shop are run by the same people). It measures 55 cm across the chest and 62.5 cm long. The shop page is in English; the detailed description is still in Japanese.

See the cardigan in our shop

Sources

This guide was drafted with AI assistance from our own notes and photos, then checked by the shop owner. Every photo shows a real piece we handled. Any diagrams are simple drawings and are labelled as diagrams.